Fence Maintenance Guide

Plan on resealing or staining every two to three years in our climate — the Kansas sun and moisture are hard on bare wood. Catching cracked or loose pickets early, before water gets into the posts, is the other habit that adds years to a wood fence. Our Fence Maintenance Guide walks through the whole routine.

Yes — repairs are a big part of what we do. Leaning posts, storm damage, sagging gates, broken pickets, and failing wire are all worth a look before they get worse and more expensive. We'll come out, tell you honestly whether it's a repair or a replacement, and quote it free.

We can. Wire loosens over time as posts shift and braces lean, and re-stretching it — along with replacing broken staples, clips, and the occasional post — brings a tired fence back tight. If the wire itself is rusted through over a long stretch, we'll let you know when a rebuild is the better value.

A single post that's heaved or rotted at the base can often be reset or sistered with a new post and re-concreted. The trick is doing it before the lean pulls on the rest of the line. If several posts are going, that's usually a sign the original depth or bracing was short — we'll take a look and give you a straight answer.

Knock heavy snow off panels and gates so the weight doesn't bow them, and watch for drifting that puts steady pressure on a section. Don't pile shoveled or plowed snow against the fence, and clear ice off latches so gates still swing. A little attention after a storm keeps small problems from setting in.

Very little. Rinse vinyl with a hose and mild soap once or twice a year and check that the caps and posts are seated after big storms. For chain link and ornamental metal, keep hinges oiled, touch up any chips or rust spots, and tighten tension bands so the fabric stays taut. That's about all they ask.